Mrs. ItchyFeet When I planned this trip to Southeast Asia, I knew that I would have some level of culture shock. But here in Hanoi, Vietnam (Hà Nội, Việt Nam) I’m at a level I have never experienced before! My apartment is really nice and is in a quiet working-class neighborhood about 15-minutes walking distance to the higher-priced tourist section. That means the food here is amazing and inexpensive. No tourist prices! But it also means that hardly anyone speaks English, while my Vietnamese is almost non-existent. It’s a bit isolating and can make it difficult to order food. I mostly just point at the menu and hope for the best!
Getting here
You all may remember my amazing boating adventure through the heart of Indonesia. If not, go read that one because it’s definitely one of my better posts. Well, the crew loaded me and all my worldly belongings into a dinghy to take me from the boat at anchor to shore. Halfway there, the engine shuts off and we are adrift. Um… no worries. It’s just a bunch of plastic wrapped around the prop. That can be a problem around Sorong, but the fouled prop was quickly sorted and off we went.
I had just spent the majority of the two-week boat trip with seasickness. The best I could do was eat loads of raw ginger and use an eighth of a motion sickness patch. But now that I am back on land, I still feel like the world is moving. It’s the weirdest feeling. I legit have land-sickness! This is ridiculous! Hopefully, some time in the fancy hotel pool will sort me out.
So here’s the thing. Sorong is a fairly religious city with rules about modesty, even in the pool. There’s a massive sign with the dress code posted right in front of the pool. I basically need to wear my long-sleeved rash-guard and shorts to swim. It’s like the opposite of French pool etiquette, where wearing loose clothing or a lot of clothing is considered poor hygiene and often banned. But there is a couple currently in the pool wearing just about nothing, so I followed their lead but with a bit more coverage. Nobody seemed to mind.
I could use a drink
The other thing about this religious country is that it is fairly difficult, and rather expensive, to get alcohol. Time for a walking adventure! This also gets me moving and lets me explore more of the city… and I can assess the walk to the airport, which requires crossing a very busy six-lane road. I want to know whether I need to catch a taxi to the airport, even though the airport is located just across the street, or if the sidewalks are good enough and close enough to wheel my luggage. They are, except for the occasional giant curb-step (two feet! probably for torrential rain runoff).
I got slightly lost once I made it to the area maps told me to go for a bottle of liquor. Luckily for me, some peeps having a coffee outside knew exactly which shop I was looking for because they all pointed back toward the alley where I had just come from. Yup, I had walked right past it. It’s possible that this small shop is the only reason westerners head into this neck of the woods. Not much alcohol is consumed here, and it’s fairly nondescript and out of the way. On the way back, I did get some school kids happily waving and shouting “hello!” to me.
Back at the hotel, I had a great time chatting with several couples who had just gotten off (or were about to get on) various scuba diving boats (just like me!). I was rather amused to find out that a couple from Australia refused to go on the boat that I had just gotten off of because the name sounded too aggressive. Is that why it is mostly patronized by Americans? The overwhelming majority of people on the boat had been American, which was markedly different from my other experiences while in Indonesia. Most of the tourists have been Australian or European. I have questions!
Time to pack
I spent a considerable amount of time packing and repacking so that my carry-on only weighed 7kg. My luggage scale has really come in handy during this trip. There is like nothing in my bag and way too much in my checked luggage. Sigh. Then, I was pretty upset when the airline forced me to check my carry-on at the gate anyway, with no explanation given that I could understand. I tried to explain that I spent so much time getting it right so this wouldn’t happen. They didn’t care. Sigh. In the confusion while trying to explain myself, I forgot exactly what was in my carry-on bag that I was just forced to gate-check… and had to go back to grab a pouch full of currency in various forms I’ve collected during my travels and a few backup debit cards. In the end, everything made it to Jakarta, Indonesia.
I’m switching airlines in Jakarta, so it’s best to stay overnight just in case there are any delays or misplaced luggage. The hotel I picked, with a free shuttle, is so close to the airport that you can watch planes taking off from the fancy sky-bar (along with geckos and bats!). But… but… because of the craziness of Jakarta traffic… it still took an hour for the shuttle to get to the hotel from the airport. They let me check in early, no fee, which is very nice of them. I was really surprised to find a Japanese-like pool and spa at the hotel. The kind that has a hot pool and a cold (so-so-so cold!) pool along with saunas and a regular lap pool.
Indonesia is largely a very modest and socially conservative country, outside of Bali. So, unlike many saunas or Japanese onsen, clothing was mandatory in the saunas, and women had their own. They provided robes and flip-flops. I definitely spent a lot of time people-watching here to make sure I was doing everything with the proper etiquette and following social norms. At least this is not a tipping culture, so I didn’t have to stress out about that. In fact, on the shuttle back to the airport the next morning, hotel staff ran out and stopped the vehicle I was in because one of the guests (Canadian) had forgotten money in their room. The guest explained it was left on purpose as a tip for housekeeping, which got a very confused look from the staff member. It took some convincing.
Cost of doing business
How can I afford these fancy hotels, you ask? Well, I book early, usually with credit card points, and I bring takeout containers when I go out for meals. Eating out can be expensive! I can’t use them for the amazing buffet breakfasts, unfortunately, but I can get à la carte for lunch, eat half, and consume the rest for dinner. This only works if you have a mini-fridge in your hotel room. Otherwise, food safety becomes a genuine concern. I sometimes get funny looks when pulling out my takeout containers, but I prefer it to having someone else box them up for me in a container I’ll be forced to throw away later.
The other thing I do is eat for free at the airport lounges (fancy travel credit card for the win!). I was really looking forward to the elaborate lounge at the airport in Jakarta. My sources on the internet clearly informed me that it was located just after immigration. So you can’t imagine how disappointed I was when I got through security and then immigration, only to find out that the internet was wrong. That fancy lounge is before immigration. As Indonesia transitions to e-gates for immigration, and largely eliminates gates staffed with actual humans, I think they may have moved the immigration checkpoints further toward the departure gates and the lounge description wasn’t updated.
You know what you can’t do after clearing immigration? You can’t go back! You have officially left the country and cannot go back through. Sigh. I guess I’m forced to use the not so fancy public bathroom, where I was very amused to find a squatting toilet. You know the kind with just a hole in the floor and a couple ceramic slabs where you place your feet? The attendant was concerned that I wouldn’t know how to use one, as I don’t look like someone who would. But thanks to my parents and all our camping excursions, I have no problems with my aim!
Unfortunately, there is not much celiac-friendly food on this side of the airport that I can eat, and I’m hungry. Plus, I didn’t pre-order food for on the plane to Hanoi because I was going to eat in the lounge. Lucky for me, I can still buy gluten-free food once on the plane. Unfortunately, we all sat on the hot tarmac for about an hour before the plane was allowed to take off… and they only took cash (VND or USD, it was a Vietnamese airline) for food and drinks. Weird.
First impressions
The flight was otherwise easy, but we didn’t make up the hour delay. I had texted my shuttle driver and my accommodation from the tarmac before takeoff to let them know that I would be late, but I was still worried the driver would leave me stranded. I did not have VND cash to pay for a taxi. Stress. After collecting my luggage, I was looking around for the shuttle meeting point and was startled when I reached the exit to find a huge crowd of sharply dressed young women surrounding me on both sides of the doors, sitting on the sidewalk with cellphones, all taking pictures and calling out (to me?) excitedly. WTF?
Is this how foreigners are greeted here in Hanoi, Vietnam? It’s like Hawaii, but more exciting? I found a person standing next to a sign with various pieces of paper clipped to it, including one with my name, and waited while he organized the shuttle drivers. All the while watching the girls as I waited for my ride. Some had signs with pictures of what looked like a boy band. K-pop? I would not want to be that boy band when they exit the airport doors. Those ladies are going to destroy them, I’m sure of it.
The drive to my accommodation was very pretty, with lots of colorful bridges and buildings. Luckily, the owner waited up for me and let me in. That’s when it got weird. The apartment is adorable and down a very quiet back alley. No problems there. But with the owner speaking Vietnamese and my lack of knowledge of that language, we had some confusions. You see, she wanted me to cancel my online booking and pay directly via credit card. On the one hand, it’s cheaper. On the other hand, I have no protections if I pay her and she kicks me out.
Trust
I’ve learned to trust my gut while traveling, and the lady seems very nice. She sized me up and is trusting that I will not destroy her place. I sized her up and did as she asked for a lower price. She also gave me some cash for the shuttle ride here, which is so helpful because I need cash to pay for breakfast. I’m tired and going to bed! I’m also still land-sick, which is absolutely ridiculous.
The following morning, I woke up starving. Time to search for breakfast… aka… phở! Half a block from my new place, I found a delightful restaurant with indoor seating. While I don’t mind eating out on the sidewalk, it’s quite hot, and I do enjoy a bit of AirCon while eating piping hot soup. Plus, the sidewalk is jam-packed with motorcycles, humans prepping vegetables, and people washing dishes.
The menu is in Vietnamese, and nobody speaks English, so I point to the top item and hope for the best. What I got was duck phở with an entire perfectly cooked duck leg, bone-in. It was so unbelievably delicious and only $2 USD! And I took home leftovers! However, it was a bit difficult to eat, so I took a picture of the menu so I could spend some time translating. Next time I will get the duck cut up into pieces, preferably without bones. This would become my main breakfast spot for the next month.
What do you mean my debit card doesn’t work here!?!
Breakfast accomplished. Time to get some cash from an ATM. Online, you can search for ATMs with low (or sometimes even no) transaction fees. Always go for one attached or inside a bank that is currently open, just in case. It’s difficult to get a replacement card overseas. I found one close by, and off I went. Unfortunately, my debit card didn’t work, but at least it gave it back. That happens sometimes. Off to a different bank. Still no luck.
Quick glance at my phone and I see a couple messages from my bank saying that the transactions were declined because Wise doesn’t work in Vietnam. A quick internet search later, and I confirm that Wise debit cards issued in the US don’t work in Vietnam, as well as a few other countries. WTF? Well, I’m glad I recently got a backup ATM card. Cash acquired!
So what about safety? I’m staying in a working-class area that feels very safe. I see women and older folks walking home alone at night, and that tells me a lot. Many times I see restaurant owners and other vendors holding fists full of cash out to make change with no concern that someone walking by will try to take it from them. Just like with México, I find the most dangerous things are the sidewalks, but for completely different reasons. The sidewalks here are very large and well designed, with raised strips to assist blind people in navigating them. But then people park hundreds of motorcycles on them (and sometimes cars) as well as tables and chairs for outdoor eating. Oftentimes, completely blocking the entire sidewalk. So you have to go into the busy street to get around or get comfortable stepping over people. Sometimes, literally!
This is my second country in Southeast Asia. How does it compare to Indonesia? Well, for one thing, they drive on the left in Indonesia, which almost killed me on multiple occasions when I looked the wrong way before stepping into the street! Then when I got to Vietnam, I had to switch back to what I’m used to. But in both places, the motorists have the right of way, so be careful. But also, to cross, you must walk into the street and trust that they won’t purposely run you over. It is also very helpful to raise a hand up to signal that you’re actively walking, while hoping they’ll go around you. There’s a lot of organized chaos, but it seems to work out. I haven’t seen an accident yet, but many people (including locals) cross the street with some apprehension, so it’s probably best to follow their lead and be cautious.
More comparisons
Both locations require that toilet paper goes into the garbage and not into the toilet. I’m not a huge fan of that, but with daily or weekly cleanings, the trash doesn’t get too smelly. Plus, I’m learning to use the bum-gun next to the toilet, which helps a lot. You also can’t drink the tap water unless you boil it. I don’t even brush my teeth with tap water, or open my mouth in the shower. In Bali, the host provided me with 20L jugs of water, while in Vietnam, the fancy kitchen came equipped with a water filtration system. It’s so much easier than replacing jugs every few days.
Both places have absolutely amazing food. Nasi Goreng (stir-fried rice) was my go-to for breakfast in Bali. Mie Goreng is the gluten-filled noodle version of the dish. While in Vietnam, I’m all about the phở and other noodle soups. Beef (phở bò), chicken (phở gà), duck (phở vịt), pork belly (phở ba chỉ lạp sườn), fish noodle soup (bún cá), mixed (lẫn), they are all delicious. The server at the Bún Cá place was really worried that I would not like the fish. He made sure I knew it was fish before I ordered, and then he waited while I tried it, with a genuine look of concern. It was delicious! Even so, I legit can’t eat the entire bowl, so I use my trusty leftover containers, bring half home, and eat that for breakfast the next day.
My US dollars go a long way in Southeast Asia, but more so specifically in Vietnam. Mostly because of the cost of alcohol. Indonesia has very strict religious alcohol laws and high taxes. No such laws exist in Vietnam, but there are high import fees. Buy local! Bali had a local drink called Arak (or Arrack) that was delightful. I hear the local beers in both places are very good, but they are much less expensive in Vietnam at around 50 cents USD. Even eating out at restaurants, it’s rare to see beer for more than around a dollar.
Stay healthy!
What about healthcare, you ask? In Vietnam, I’m surrounded by amazing-looking hospitals, dental clinics, and skin care facilities, but haven’t tried any of them. While in Bali, I had a very thorough dental cleaning for around $35 USD. Also in Bali, I walked down to the international clinic to get some vaccines. The main reason being I was only able to get one shot of the fancy new vaccine for Dengue while I was in Colombia, and I needed one more. You can’t get that in México or the USA. Lucky for me, they had it in Bali! I also got the two shots for Japanese Encephalitis, as that crappy disease is endemic to several of the locations I am traveling to.
While chatting with the doctor, he mentioned that Bali is in the middle of a rabies epidemic. Here’s the thing… while I give monkeys a wide berth, I really like to pet stray dogs and I seek out bats everywhere I go. If you get the rabies vaccine (two or three shots), and then you get bitten, you still have to go into a clinic for more shots. But if you don’t get the vaccine ahead of time, and then you get bitten, you need something called rabies immunoglobulin. It is extremely expensive ($8,000 USD) and can be difficult to find. Okay, you talked me into the vaccine. Mostly because I really want to pet the stray dogs again!
When I came back for my third rabies vaccine, there was an Australian lady in the clinic paying for services. It sounded like she had gotten bitten by one of the monkeys up in the mountains. She had to get a rabies vaccine as well as that expensive immunoglobulin shot and a course of antibiotics. She was not pleased. They instructed her that she would need even more courses of the rabies vaccine once she got back home. Don’t touch the monkeys!
So which place do I like better? I really miss the Pacific Ocean (and the promenade!) in Sanur, Bali. It’s fun walking around the city of Hanoi, but that ocean calls to me. My apartment here is really nice, but it looks into someone else’s unit across the small alley (it is fun to notice how much time other humans put on makeup though! and then wonder how many humans spend this much of their lives just doing their makeup…). My place in Bali was so quiet and isolated, with a wonderful deck for viewing geckos and birds and bats. Plus, in Bali, just about everyone speaks English, so it was easier for me to chat with random people. I’ll soon have more comparisons as I’m excited about Thailand next. Stay tuned!
