Jingle Bells and Giant Lizards, Dodging Shoppers in Festive Malls and Dragons in Bangkok Parks

Mrs. ItchyFeet in front of Bangkok letters

Walking around Bangkok, Thailand, is very different from walking around most of the cities I have been to. For one thing, it’s very flat here and the sidewalks are nice, with crosswalks and pedestrian bridges galore. Plus, skytrains, metros, and ferries are plentiful and easy to use if I need a break. It’s fairly quiet too because honking (while going around corners, entering intersections, or just saying hi) is not the custom here. I’m having a wonderful time wandering around, looking at all the amazing architecture this gorgeous city has on offer! But it hasn’t been all fun and games.

To the hospital

Medical tourism is popular in many of the countries I’ve been to recently, but it’s predominantly been dental. You can fly in for vacation and get a crown or implant or whatever for less than in the US, Canada, or Australia (I chatted up an Aussie dude in Bali, Indonesia, who was there getting a tooth implant). But what I see the most advertised in Bangkok is for work on the largest organ of the human body… skin.

Durian fruit stand
It’s durian fruit season!!! If you know, you know. There are signs everywhere saying you can’t bring the fresh smelly fruit on trains, in buildings, on planes. My apartment building will fine me if I get caught, but it’s so good…

Which is perfect because I have a brand new mole on my stomach that has changed dramatically since July (I took a picture so I could watch it). I’ve already had skin cancer, and my family has a history of the deadly disease, so I have to be extra careful. What better place to get this mole checked out than in a city that is so invested in skincare?

Here’s the thing… cosmetic skincare is a lot different from dermatology. I need to check this thing for cancer, not have it removed because it is unsightly. Looks like I need a hospital. Lucky for me, I have five within walking distance. Now, to make an appointment. In Seattle, USA, it takes about six months to get an appointment with a dermatologist, so I’m really hoping that is not the case here because I won’t be here that long.

How do I do this?

Besides a derm appointment, I also need to see a gynecologist. Low and behold, I found a sales promotion at a highly rated, private, not-for-profit hospital a few blocks away. I like sales! I attempted to email the hospital but didn’t get a response. They don’t have a text messaging service that I’m familiar with. The reviews online said not to call unless you know Thai, which I do not. I guess I will just have to walk over there in order to make the two appointments.

King Power Mahanakhon Skyscraper
My apartment is right next to functionally the tallest building in Bangkok. Look at those tiny humans way up there on the Mahanakhon SkyWalk!

Upon entering the building, a wonderful English-speaking human asked if I would like to be seen by both clinics now. Now? Like right now? Yup. Right now. I was not prepared for that, but okay. As I was filling out all the paperwork with my name, contact info, and address in Bangkok, the receptionist asked to see my passport. I did not bring that. Guess I’ll have to come back later? Nope! No worries, I can just use the photo saved on my phone.

Within minutes, another human came and escorted me upstairs to Gynecology. I really wasn’t prepared for this, so I didn’t have any of my paperwork from my last appointment in the States. But I have technology! I was able to pull it up on my phone and send them a copy. So when I entered the patient room, the gynecologist had my chart and went over it with me so she knew what to look for. This is like magic-magic medical land!

Do you need a prescription?

If you are a female in the USA, you know all about the beds in gynecologist’s offices, with the weird foot traps. I just assumed those were ubiquitous throughout the world. Nope. Entirely different bed here with this cool cutout at the end and no foot traps. Very comfortable. The entire procedure was easy-peasie and they will email my results in a week. Afterwards, the gynecologist asked about my medication, which is crazy expensive in the States, even though I have insurance and buy generic.

Baby house gecko
House gecko for the win! I love these guys. They are adorable!

Turns out, they have the name brand in their pharmacy, and it’s fairly inexpensive. Less expensive than the generic back in the States. I’m in! She put the prescription into her computer and sent me across the hall. The pharmacy is also where I need to pay for the gynecologist, which was, in fact, on sale until the end of the year. 1,900 baht ($60 USD). Now, to the dermatologist!

After getting my vitals checked at the front desk of the dermatology clinic, it was just a few minutes wait before I was seen. The dermatologist didn’t think my mole was of any concern until she saw the picture that I had taken back in July. After that, she suggested that I get it biopsied. She was very concerned because she didn’t know the exact cost of the pathology review of the biopsy because they send it outside of the hospital. It could be upwards of 10,000 baht ($320 USD)!

Let’s do this

Well, there’s not much I can do at this point. I’ve already had skin cancer, and it would be silly to just ignore the mole and hope it goes away. Plus, I won’t have this level of medical care once I get to Vietnam because I’ll be on a tiny island. It’s now or never. And with that, the room is prepped for surgery, and the mole is removed with some discomfort from the numbing shots. Three stitches are put in and, after removing my bellybutton ring, the entire thing is covered in a bandage, a type of transparent wound dressing, that should remain in place for nine days. I guess I won’t be using my swimming pool for a bit!

Wat Don Cemetery
As you well know, I love exploring cemeteries, and I was not disappointed with Wat Don Cemetery near my apartment.

After that, it was off to the pharmacy to pay for the entire thing and pick up some antibiotics. At this point, I was pretty worried about the cost because if the pathology is 10,000 baht, how much for surgery? Will it be another 10,000 baht? Nope. It turns out that the dermatologist was talking about the entire procedure being that much, not just sending out the sample for testing. Nice! Time to head home.

I’m very impressed with the medical here. I decided to skip taking the antibiotics because I don’t like taking them, especially systemic antibiotics, unless I absolutely have to. There was also a lot of medical literature that was inconclusive about whether it was beneficial to take prophylactic antibiotics for this type of procedure. If it were a dog bite or something where a possible infection could be introduced, I for sure would. But the mole was removed in a sterile environment, so I did not take the antibiotics. Sorry, doctor! I also put my bellybutton ring back in through the bandage by making the smallest and most precise holes possible.

Are you going to use those?

The bandages itched like crazy, but I managed to keep them on for the entire nine days. After that, the dermatologist removed my stitches and let me know the mole was benign. Thank goodness! I again paid at the pharmacy after receiving some topical antibiotics that I will definitely use. I’m so glad it’s not skin cancer. That would have sucked!

Fireworks from rooftop deck
While most of the fireworks in the area were canceled in observance of the passing of Thailand’s Queen Mother, I got to watch some every Saturday and Sunday from my apartment building’s 28th floor rooftop deck!

So then later on, I’m walking to the grocery store and this gentleman approaches me looking all pale and sad. He tells me that he got into a motorcycle accident and rolls up his sleeve to show me this absolutely nasty-looking wound under a bandage on his arm. He says he doesn’t speak Thai, and he needs help to pay for medical care. I let him know that he should go to the hospital that I went to (just a few blocks away) because they speak English.

I also asked him if he needed antibiotics. He was not interested in that, but he then shows me his itemized list of his medical expenses. Now I’m suspicious. He asks if I can help with any money for his care. That really pulled at my heartstrings, but I said no and walked away. A bit of research later and I learn that this is a big scam in this area with many experiences online. Whether the wound was real or makeup, I’m not sure. I only saw it for a couple seconds. I really hope it was makeup! If he really needs help, his embassy will loan him the money for medical care. Jibbers! Note: I spotted the gentleman two weeks later and he looked fine.

To the run!

I was lucky enough to catch a couple of runs with my running group while in Bangkok. On the first one, I didn’t know what to expect as it would be my first time riding the Metro (MRT). There is a Skytrain just around the corner from my apartment, but that is different from the underground system. And to make things a bit more complicated, the line I need to get on goes in a circle, so I have to figure out which side to get on so I go in the right direction. I do not want to go around the entire circle!

While I liked the morning markets better in Bangkok, I had to go check out the famous Patpong Night Market at least once. The food was okay, but the best part was the people watching! This is the ‘red-light district’ so I didn’t stay too late.

Lucky for me, most everything is also in English, which makes it so much easier. Here’s the thing… I’m used to running with my Seattle group. They set the time, you mossy up, they talk for like half an hour, and then off we go. It’s like ‘island time’ or ‘Latin-American time’ or ‘subject to local time’. I just assumed this would be the same, so I was very surprised when I got there right on time and they immediately took off running! Oh, the start time is the actual start time? These people are punctual!

We all had a really great adventure weaving our way through the city, although at one point I got turned around in a dark back alley and almost ran through someone’s house! The locals were quick to help get me back on track, laughing and pointing in the direction the rest of the group went. We even ran past a gorgeous Buddhist Temple! Afterward, we all met at a local restaurant (that was open just for us!) for dinner. Thanks, new friends! Except now I’m sore because the entire adventure (to metro, to start, run, back to metro, back home) was 19 kilometers!

Mrs. ItchyFeet in front of Wat Lat Phrao
My running group ran past this gorgeous Buddhist Temple (Wat Lat Phrao).

Pictures, please!

Mrs. ItchyFeet by colorful elephant statue
As you know, elephants have a special place in Thai culture. I spotted this wonderful sculpture while running through the Song Wat Road neighborhood, which is another must explore location!

Night view from Chao Phraya Sky Park Bridge
I went on another run that had me cross over the gorgeous Chao Phraya Sky Park Bridge where loads of people gather to watch the sunset over the Chao Phraya River. The river night cruise boats are really colorful!

The Grand Palace
One of the main touristy things to do in Bangkok is visit the Grand Palace. I went early to avoid the crowds and the heat of the day (especially while wearing pants and a conservative top).

Buddhist Temple at The Grand Palace
The Buddhist Temple at The Grand Palace was spectacular. Definitely worth the trip.

Mrs. ItchyFeet at The Grand Palace
Dress code is strictly enforced! I saw a couple of ladies wearing capri pants get denied entry because their ankles were showing. A friend of mine in shorts almost got the boot before he pulled wrap-around elephant pants out of his bag. The security officer told him men could not wear skirts (sarongs), which I find very interesting in this area.

Temple dog at The Grand Palace
My favorite part of the Grand Palace was the Buddhist Temple grounds. Gold and shiny bits! You have to take your shoes off to go inside.

Queen Mother’s Garments exhibit at The Grand Palace
My second favorite part of the Grand Palace was the Queen Mother’s Garments. So pretty!

Packed ferry on Chao Phraya River
On the way to the Grand Palace, I got on the wrong ferry (the tourist one) along the Chao Phraya River. I accidentally paid more for closed windows and A/C. On the way back, I specifically requested the public ferry for a more authentic Thai experience. I was, however, very concerned when it showed up. They fit way-way too many people on that open ferry and it is not possible that they had life-preservers for all of us. I tried to stay on the outside of the boat but got sandwiched into the interior by the throngs of humans. It was very exciting, but I can see how dangerous it is. Ferry accidents kill loads of people every year throughout Southeast Asia. Safety third!

Mrs. ItchyFeet in front of San Francisco Bridge in Terminal 21 Mall
Another popular thing to do in Bangkok is explore the massive malls! Check out the San Francisco Bridge in the Terminal 21 Mall. I have been immensely impressed with the architecture here.

Metal Christmas tree at IconSiam Mall
Plus, it’s Christmas time, so I get treated with loads of festive decorations! Most of the malls have food courts, which have a variety of options for less than the fancy restaurants.

Mrs. ItchyFeet in front of voluptuous horse sculpture
Near centralwOrld Mall, I spotted a Fernando Botero sculpture! You remember that famous Colombian sculptor I learned all about in Medellin? How freaking cool is that!?!

Lumphini Park
Lumphini Park is gorgeous and a great place to walk around. I’m pretty sure I spotted another Fernando Botero sculpture, but the plaque was torn off, so I’m not for certain.

The Red Cross Fair in Lumphini Park
A friend of friends was kind enough to meet me at Lumphini Park to give me a tour of the massive Red Cross Fair! I had such a good time learning about the area and about the fair itself. Thanks, New Friend!

View of Lumphini Park from Central Park Mall
There is a garden park on top of Central Park Mall that overlooks Lumphini Park (look at all those peeps heading to The Red Cross Fair!). My new friend told me about the garden, but I couldn’t find it until I spotted tiny wet bare feet running around on a skylight high up in the ceiling of the mall. Kids were running around in a water feature in the rooftop garden.

Lumphini Park with swimming Asian water monitor
The famous Bangkok Dragon! Aka: the Asian water monitor. It’s the second largest lizard species in the world, and you can spot so many of them in Lumphini Park.

Bangkok Dragon!
You have no idea how excited I get with each glimpse. And it’s fun to people watch as these beautiful creatures sun themselves or search for food and startle the unsuspecting.

Benjakitti Forest Park
Benjakitti Forest Park is a must in Bangkok. The park is gorgeous with sky-trails and wooden marsh-trails. There is even a dog-park.

Mrs. ItchyFeet leaning on lizard warning sign
While I didn’t see any actual Bangkok Dragons in Benjakitti Forest Park, I did find signs of their existence!

Mrs. ItchyFeet on sky-trail
The city is currently working on a pedestrian sky-trail connecting this Benjakitti Forest Park to Lumphini Park, so bikers and walkers can explore both without getting run over by vehicles. Nice!

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2 Comments

  1. My, does that city look different than 50 years ago. Car noise was also rampant. I thought it must be a law that new vehicles had their mufflers sawed off. NEVER eat on a sitting sidewalk cafe. You may as well be in the road.
    We got up at 3 AM, still jet lagged, and went sight seeing. By 10 we quit and went back to the hotel to take a shower. We were already dirty just from walking around. Clean air….not.
    Beautiful temples and very nice people.
    We did the Golden Triangle trek out of Chang Mai. After the first day it was just us, another couple, plus guide and porter. One of the best things on our trip, totally unexpected. We were just trying to get out of Bangkok for awhile. It was out first stop and a kind of city + language/culture/food etc. we had no experience with.
    It was a small town back then. The bus ride up was so harrowing we took the train back to Bangkok.

    1. The air quality in Bangkok is still not great, but not as bad as I thought it might be. Lot’s of people wear face masks outside to protect against the air pollution. I chatted with one local who said as much. It is a really pretty city though and I’m very glad I got the chance to explore. It’s fun to hear how much it has changed. Thanks!

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