Mrs. ItchyFeet Have you ever seen a bark scorpion? I spotted one the other night scuttling towards my bare feet in the kitchen! They are big and opalescence and very fast! I squeed with fear while I ran to get my camera, but he was gone when I got back… I assume he went under the kitchen door?…I think… I hope! I looked everywhere but found nothing. A friend told me about her friend who woke up to a scorpion falling from the ceiling onto her face. Nope! I do not want my evening to end with a trip to the hospital for anti-venom.
Awe, living in the tropics never gets old
Now that I have your attention, let me tell you about the second hike I went on with the hiking group here in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, México. I promised myself that I would avoid mid-day hikes at all costs. It’s just too hot. So… this hike starts at 2pm. That should be better, right? Plus, there is the promise of a mid-hike swim to cool off. I left early because this will be the first time that I try out the colectivo system here. Colectivos consist of white vans or pickup trucks with seats in the back. They travel designated routes and you hop on and hop off as needed.
Colectivos are the best way to travel, if you can figure out where they are heading. Most have signs on or above their windshields listing major destinations. So if a colectivo goes from the mercado in centro Puerto to the mercado in Zicatela, you can get on or off anywhere along that route. You spot the colectivo that you want and wave them down like you would a taxi. They pull over to let you jump in the back and off you go. There is a button to press when you want to get off. That’s easier than yelling at the driver like in Playa del Carmen.
Once you jump out, you pay the driver 12 pesos (don’t forget to pay the driver!). That’s less than 50 cents in US moneys! A taxi down to Zicatela will cost you 100 pesos or more, depending on your taxi-driver bartering skills (of which I am mediocre). So I left early to hike down (and then up again… these hills!) to the main road to wait for a colectivo going to a Mini-Super in Zicatela, strangely named 7+1.
Is this someone’s house?
I thought I might have to wait a while for a colectivo, but I spotted one in less than a minute. After jumping in the back, we were off. I also assumed that it would take about 30 minutes to get to Zicatela with all the stopping for riders. Nope. It was not busy at all, so we sped right through Puerto with no traffic to speak of. Just a bunch of speeding up and slowing down for speed bumps (tope!).
Most of us jumped off at the 7+1, so I didn’t even have to worry that I would miss my stop. And then the walk to the meetup spot was super fast and all downhill. The first hike had started at an adorable hostel, so I just assumed that this one would too. But when I got there, I realized that this was someone’s house. There is a sign with the name of the house above a gorgeous gate. Do I just walk in?
Within seconds, two dogs behind the gate were barking dramatically at my presence. I’m pretty sure I recognized one of them as the German shepherd from the first hike. But who is this puppy next to him? There is no way I’m opening a gate for a dog I’m not acquainted with! Plus, I’m so early as to be rude. Time to wait it out and hope someone else shows up. Unfortunately, I’m genuinely concerned that I might have the wrong meeting spot.
The early bird and all that
With that, I knock until the host comes to open the gate. Luckily I’m at the right place and he is not perturbed that I’m so early. The German shepherd says hi, but the new puppy (four months old!) is, apparently, so annoyingly excited for the new human that the older dog vacates to lie down elsewhere. After sitting down on the outdoor couch (this place is gorgeous!), the puppy immediately jumps up, flips over to show me his belly and all his feet, and starts mouthing my hands. Awww, puppies and their sharp puppy teeth!
He’s a very recent rescue, so he’s still learning all the manners. I tried all my usual tricks for training not to bite. Exclaim ‘no’ loudly, say ‘ouch’ all sad like, pinch the pup’s cheeks, grab his tongue, anything to make the biting experience unpleasant. I did not go full training mode because he is not my dog (and I don’t have any distracting chew toys other than my fingers), but I think we made progress. It helps that the puppy is adorable and I love me some doggy time!
As this is happening, more and more people arrive. The puppy eventually gives up on me to play with the older doggo. At one point, they both come running through the amazing outdoor space, but now the puppy is sopping wet. WTF? Sounds like they got too rambunctious and the puppy fell into the fountain. Too funny. We all worked to corral the pup in the yard as the hike would be too strenuous for him… wait… how strenuous is this hike in this heat?!?
Where did he come from?
Once everyone was outside the gate and the host managed to get the door closed with a very sad whining puppy on the other side, we realized that there were several large decorative holes in the property wall. You know how we found this out? The puppy was suddenly outside with us! The owner was surprised. He had been wondering how the puppy had gotten out on previous occasions, as the holes were small and pretty high up the wall. He’s a jumper!
The puppy ran around all excited for a bit, chasing the neighbor’s chickens while the host went back inside to find another leash. Turns out that the puppy is so new that he has never been on a leash before… ever. That pup was not happy about that leash and suddenly decided that he no longer wanted to go with us and would much rather stay back on the couch at home. Nope. Too late. You’re coming along.
There was a lot of drama and whining and trying to get out of the collar. The owner was very concerned that this was going to be a horrible hike. His adult dog was doing amazing and was fine with someone else holding his leash, so the host passed him off to someone else so he could deal with new puppy craziness. Then, suddenly, the puppy figured it out and was fine. Which is really good because we had to cross the busy highway and that’s a challenge all by itself.
More hot dirt roads
After we all survived the frogger-style highway crossing, we made our way to another dirt road. At this point, the puppy was allowed off-leash. To my utter surprise, that pup stayed right with us. Absolutely no wondering off, even as we ventured past goat pens and through a farm with small cages, each containing a single rooster. I’m pretty sure those poor cocks are being raised for the boxing ring, but you never know. Venders do sell gallos for consumption at the mercados.
It is hot… like tropical mid-day hot-hot. And dusty. There is some shade but not much. It is loads of fun chatting with people, though. Plus, the occasional random dog or two joins us on our adventures. Most are nice, but some definitely do not want us coming near their property. There are definitely a lot of dogs around here. But I’m more concerned if I brought enough water this time!
Once we finally make it to the river, I’m surprised how many people are here, picnicking in the shade by the water. Some are even playing in the river, but I realize it is way too shallow for actual swimming. Our group wanders around the bend to a bar that is set up on a tall bank overlooking the valley downstream. It’s really pretty and shaded, which is the best part. I’m expecting that they will only have beer and soda, but I’m super excited that they have hard cider. Noms!
Time to cool off in the river
After enjoying a drink and chatting with everyone about life, the universe, everything, I strip down to my bathing suit and make my way carefully down the embankment to the crystal clear water. Here’s the thing… they told me the water was warm. However, I was not prepared for just how hot the water was. Like mountain hot-springs hot! Absolutely not refreshing at all! Everyone down there is surprised. The river is so slow moving and so shallow that it just bakes in the tropical sunshine. It was so weird.
While the river gave me no reprieve from the heat, getting out was wonderful. Having washed off all the sweat and cooling off in the breeze was lovely. I’m glad I went in. We all chilled by the bar for a bit longer. Then we got a huge surprise. The puppy decided it was a good idea to walk on top of this abandoned thatch roofing by the embankment. We all collectively went ‘NO!’ while trying to get him off without him falling through the roof. He was fine, but it was a bit dramatic. He looked very chuffed with himself.
After changing back into mostly dry clothes (so much sweat!), we decided to hike back along a different route. This route was very pretty, with lots of shade and gorgeous, massive trees. There are some horse pastures and, again, lots of dogs. While we are hiking, one of the hikers gets a very upsetting phone call. She’s walking far back and clearly crying. I hang back as much as I can to make sure she sees all our turns and doesn’t get left behind.
It’s sad to lose a family member
It turns out that one of her roosters had died. He had gotten a spider bite that turned necrotic and he wasn’t able to recover. Poor rooster! The owner was very upset. Pets become family members and it’s so hard when you lose one. I gave her my condolences, but there’s not much we can do from here. Onwards.
The puppy was put back on a leash once we got to the paved roads. He did a ton better this time! I say my goodbyes at the highway and jump on an absolutely packed colectivo. Standing room only. The colectivos around here stop running around 7pm and it’s getting close to that time. It would suck to have to walk home (even with the gorgeous sunset that is happening). Rumor has it that the taxis start charging extra after 7pm, even though they are not supposed to.
I’m standing there in the back of the colectivo and this old man offers me his seat. I decline, but I’m both grateful that he offered and insulted. In México, old ladies (and women with small children or pregnant) get priority when it comes to public transport. I don’t feel like an old lady. Do I look like an old lady? I have questions! Anyway, the ride is very fast.
Home bound
Another nice older gentleman lets me know how to ask to be let off because one of the buttons is missing. Plus, he lets me know that this particular colectivo will be turning off the main road early, so I should get off before that if I’m staying on the left side of the road. People are so nice and helpful! Once off, I walk the rest of the way home, down one hill and back up another and down again before making it up two more very steep hills. Sigh.
I’m very hot and sweaty and dusty by the time I get home. I think I will stick with late evening or morning hikes from now on. It’s just too hot to do the mid-day ones. Especially now, as the humidity is ticking up. April and May are supposed to be the hottest months. Once the rains start in June, I’ll reassess. What an adventure!
